Acrylic glass kit in the test: Show me your hardware, tower!

Acrylic glass kit in the test: Show me your hardware, tower!


We come to the assembly of the housing according to the illustrated instructions. In order to connect the plates with each other, acrylic cubes are included, which have holes with threaded inserts into which the screws are then turned. Once you have screwed this onto the top and bottom plate, the first thing you need to do is screw the drive cage, also consisting of two acrylic plates. This is followed by the front and back, before the two side parts are finally assembled. Of course, the necessary steps for the assembly of the loudspeaker, the carrier with power and reset switch and LEDs, the housing feet and the drive panels must also be carried out in between. By the way, the acrylic housing feet are not screwed on, but glued on with double-sided adhesive tape and have a rubber coating on the underside. As a result, the housing is non-slip and vibrations from built-in fans are not transmitted.

Acrylic cubes
Base plate and drive cage

Once the housing has been installed, the PC components can be installed. Great care is required here so that the acrylic panels are not unnecessarily scratched by edges on the power supply unit, drives and mainboard. Up to four external 5.25 'drives, two external 3.5' drives and five internal 5.25 'drives can be built into the approximately 475mm x 220mm x 440mm (LxWxH) large and slightly over 7kg heavy acrylic housingwill. The fact that there are enough screws for a full assembly of drives is pleasantly noticeable. In practice, there is a tip to first tighten all screws, regardless of whether they are side panels or drive cages, by hand. If all screws are already tightened, it can lead to fitting problems, scratches and problems when installing the components.

Housing half-finished
Housing assembled

When installing the power supply, the first problems arose: the opening in the rear wall of the case is a bit too small, so that the Leadman 400 watt power supply used is only screwed on temporarily could. Other power supplies were not available at the time of the test, but here are the exact dimensions of the cutout: 65mm x 132mm (HxW). The existing screw holes fit without any problems, only the lower edge of the cutout could be a good 2mm further down.

Detail: NT does not fit

Finally, the drive covers are mounted, which is not very easy with the 3.5 'bays, as the covers are only clamped tight with small pins with a rubber ring. With the 5.25' covers you press the panels against a small edge in the panel cut-out, but this edge is missing in the 3.5 'cut-outs. Then the left side wall is mounted and the case is ready. During the test setup with quite a few components, it took a good two hours to get the case including content.

Let's briefly come to the stability: The case is after thecomplete assembly quite stable, but crunches at all corners and ends when you lift it. The housing can only be used to a limited extent for transporting the computer, especially because of the increased risk of scratches. Due to the rubber feet, the case remains quite quiet during operation, even if you can clearly feel the vibrations of the drives and fans when you put your hand on. However, there is no humming or rattling like with metal housings with their thin side walls, which like to pass the vibrations on to the outside world.


Due to the material used, housing modifications are possible no leeway. Because hardly a normal user will have the appropriate tools to work on the acrylic of the kit. However, by installing cold-light cathodes or illuminated fans, great lighting effects can be achieved, which are shown to advantage in the quasi-transparent housing. The installation of insulating mats is of course unnecessary, then you can save the money for the acrylic kit.

On the next page: Conclusion